FAQs – Pool & Spa Basics
Frequently asked questions about inground pools, above ground pools, hot tubs, and spas
Regenerating the Hayward DE Filter | The Filtration System | The Pool Outlets | The Pool Inlets | The Hair and Leaf Strainer | Water Chemistry | Water Balance | pH | Total Alkalinity | Calcium Hardness | Water Testing | Cloudy, Milky Water | Green Water | Red or Brown Water | Blue-Green Water | Blue or Black Water | Excessive Foaming
Regenerating the Hayward DE Filter (When the pressure is up and bumping doesn’t help) click here to print
1) TURN OFF PUMP
2) BUMP FILTER – Down slow and up swiftly, about (7) seven times
3) DRAIN FILTER – Open lower (gate) valve, open top (air) valve, allow it to gravity drain.
4) FLUSH FILTER – Turn the pump ON, close the air valve, wait 30 seconds, close the gate valve
5) RECIRCULATE – Run pump to eliminate air from the system
6) Repeat steps 1 through 5
7) Add proper amount of DE – EC 75: 7 Orange cups | EC 65: 6 Orange cups | EC 40: 4 Orange cups
The function of the filtration system is to keep the water clean and clear. Every Nejame & Sons swimming pool comes equipped with the highest quality filtration system available.
In the pool filtration system, water leaves the pool through outlets to return to the pool pump. There are two types of pool outlets, and both are required for adequate filtration. The first outlet is the surface skimmer, which is located along the pool wall on the surface. The second outlet is the equalizing line.
Inlets return filtered, heated and chemically treated water back to the pool. Inlets provide the strong jets of water that you feel massage you as you hold on to the side of the pool.
The pool pump must be protected by a strainer pot that collects hair, lint, bobby pins, leaves, and other foreign objects. This strainer, located near the pool pump, protects your pool pump from damage, and should be checked daily. Top
Like good filtration, chemical treatment is vital to having clean, clear, and bacteria-free pool and spa water. The chemical disinfectant used in a swimming pool provides two important distinct functions: disinfection and oxidation.
Disinfection is the process of destroying microorganisms and bacteria. More specifically, disinfection refers to the destruction of bacteria, viruses, algae, and other pathogens in order to prevent the transmission of disease and other swimmer discomforts, such as burning eyes and itching skin. To provide efficient and continuous bacteria control, the pool disinfectant must have residual properties.
Oxidation refers to the breaking down of organic debris. Chemical oxidation assists filtration by decreasing the amount of debris the filters must handle. Killing bacteria is a relatively easy task for chemicals; even small amounts of chlorine will destroy most pathogens. When the swimmer load is high, correspondingly higher levels of chlorine are necessary to rid the pool of the additional organic debris. You may blame dull looking pool water on poor filtration, when in reality insufficient oxidation due to lack of pool chemicals is the real culprit. Top
While swimming pool disinfectants are used to keep pool and spa water clean, clear and free of bacteria, pH and water balance are essential for keeping the water both comfortable to swimmers’ eyes and skin, as well as balanced to protect the pool shell, plumbing and equipment. If pH levels are not kept within the appropriate range, the resulting unbalanced water can damage the pool shell and make water uncomfortable to swim in.
Many pool experts agree that pH is the most important element of swimming pool water chemistry. The lower the pH value, the more acidic the water. The higher the pH value, the more basic the water. Neutral (distilled) water has a pH of 7, but do not try to keep your pool or spa water neutral; keep it slightly basic, 7.4 to 7.6.
Total alkalinity is a measure of the resistance of water to the changes in pH. Total alkalinity is measured in ppms or mjls. The higher the alkalinity, the more difficult it is to change pH with either acid or soda ash. The lower the alkalinity, the more likely the pH will change; even slight changes in chemicals, swimmer loads, and weather can have a significant effect on pH or cause pH “bounce” when the alkalinity is low. Top
Hardness is a term often used when referring to the mineral content of the water in a swimming pool. All water supplies have varying amount of calcium and magnesium, which make the pool water hard.
It is vital that someone test your pool and spa water faithfully, but it needn’t be a chore. In fact, water testing can be fun! Most test procedure produce color changes that may keep your children entertained. Youngsters can also be taught to conduct tests, and it can be quite educational. If your children are responsible for the water testing, you should supervise them.
Cloudy, milky water is a frequent problem for some pools, and the cause is often the neglect of the pool’s filtration or disinfection system.
Brushing the pool helps prevent algae growth, although pools in warm climates have significant algae growth, and may require a regular prevention plan.
Red or brown water is usually caused by high iron content in the source water.
If it is not caused by algae, blue-green water is often due to a high copper content in the water.
Water that is blue or black usually indicates that there is manganese in your swimming pool water. Corrosive water is more likely to bring out this substance.
Foaming is more than likely to occur in spas and hot tubs than in swimming pools. Soft water (low calcium hardness), algaecides, and high total dissolved solids caused by lotions, creams, shampoos, and the like can all cause excessive foaming.